Tag Archives: Split

Update #1: Adriatica 2011 – Mission accomplished, returning home

Some five weeks ago I departed from Murter, Croatia, to sail south to the inland sea of Levkada in Greece…

My sailing yacht Helena, a Beneteau Cyclades 39, is very easy to handle and performs well, including the Genaker, one of my trip gadgetsthe ultimate toy. Top speed we reached was 8.7 knots sailing downwind surfing from the waves, faster then the 7.8 knots we reached with the Genaker. I am speeding I think as she was never pushed to before.

The other gadgets are my BBQ – used well – and a Go Pro high definition wide angle video camera. Only my MacBook is not speeding as I wished due to the installation of a Croatian Internet Stick. So I do feel crippled this sailing trip and I cannot upload any of the video’s made.

After 5 weeks one of the lessons I have learned is that I am now an internet addict officially. So my the gadget for my next sailing trip will be  a high-speed satellite internet connection mounted to the boat :-)

Trip Summary

Since last Tuesday I am heading home, after having thrown my anchor at Ithaca, home of King Odysseus, the ultimate destination of my Odyssean Trail, so time for an update.

The Castle of Odysseus on Ithaka

The Castle of Odysseus on Ithaka

From tomorrow I will be heading back to Croatia. But I have learned from the classics and know never to rush things and unplease the Gods like Odysseus did. So I will sail via Puglia in Italy, enjoy the Italian food and maybe sacrifice some of it to the Gods before returning Helena to Croatia.

Croatia

Of the first 2 weeks in Croatia worth mentioning are the waterfalls of Skradin, Ancient Split with its palace of Diocletianus, Hvar still the Ibiza of the Adriatic and Stari Grad, the BBQ in a bay in Lastovo, brutely disturbed by a thunderstorm  (Lastovo was forbidden to enter until the end of the 1990’sand we anchored left to departed submarine bunkers and VHF monitor buildings), Sipan (I will retire there once), and Dubrovnik and Cavtat (Port of Entry) in Croatia.

Weather conditions where light the first week and brilliant the second week where we had 28 knots of wind between Hvar and Vis. Fantastic to sail so much wind just in your shorts. Of the 2,5 weeks in Croatia, only one day was with rain. We did get some anchor showers though

Montenegro

In Montenegro I have visited Kotor with it’s immense city walls from around 1500 and also Tivat, where a superyacht marina is being build currently. Nice to be provided with a personal naval assistant.

Perast and the islands “Gospa od Skrpjela” are impressive. Perast was in ancient times the maritime center of the Venetian Empire and the church on one of the islands served as votive center for seafarers.

I see Sveti Stefan as the highlight of the country. Similar to what celebreties of the 1950’s like Sophia Lorenz thought. It attractiveness declined after the death of Tito and the civil war of yugoslavia but now it is being restored to it’s previous glamour. The visit to Montenegro ended in Bar, where we left the country.

The weather was not in favour of us in Montengro, although always sunny and around 28 degrees, we had no wind for almost 1,5 weeks.

Greece

Corfu Town was the first city we touched in Greece. It was good to be in Greece but the bureaucratic system is something you don’t want to have to deal with. It took me 4 hours of waiting and formalities to enter the country with my Croatian ship. Later it took me about 2 hours to pay 88 eurocents of taxes in some obscure tax office.

After Corfu town, our destination was Ay Stefanou. A very tranquille bay to anchor and come to strength after the crossing from Montenegro (circa 175 nautical Miles, about 50% of the time 15 – 20 knots of wind from the back). Via Gaios on Paxoi (or Paxos) we arrived at Levkada itself.

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Last week it was my intention to have a more holiday oriented week with low profile sailing, just to digest the almost 800 nautical miles already sailed in the first 4 weeks. Finally time to do some decent snorkeling and firing up the BBQ. But also reached my destination: Ithaca.

After Ithaca and having visited the ruins of the castle of King Odysseus (one of the 3 possible locations on the island, not to mention other islands) we went to the Bay of Pandelimon where a Dolphin family was entertaining us during the evening and the next morning. It was the first time I have swum with dolphins.

Weather conditions in the last week was top, no wind in the mornings and around 14:00 the Gods switched on the wind and we got 20 knots of wind almost every day.

Sneak Preview: Sailing from Split to Dubrovnik

Part of the trip Adriatica 2009 was sailing from Split to Dubrovnik.

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Full Screen View

The zipped KML file to be opened in Google Earth can be found here.

In between I visited the islands like Hvar, Vis, Korcula and Sipan before arriving in Dubrovnik. Later more on the different places and bays I have found during the trip. The places I liked most were the Island Vis and Sipan.

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Daily Picture: Dancing Clouds

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Clouds can be very happy too!

Picture was taken between Split and Hvar just before going between the islands Brac and Solta.

Before this crossing there was almost no wind to sail. After the crossing it rose to 15 – 20 knots. So the only scientific explanation for this kind of weather phenomenon is off course: happy sailing to be expected because We (the wind Gods) will turn on the wind up to 15 – 20 knots.

To be included in the next edition of the Ancient Coasts Adriatic Sailing Almanac (although I am not sure yet if I should limit it to the Adriatic alone)

Sailing from Murter to Split

Yesterday arrived in Split after a week of happy sailing from Murter to Split.

Google Earth Mania

Below you will find the route we took.

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Download the Google Earth File (unzip and then open in Google Earth)

Off course I had to go to the Kornati Archipel again. This time no nice little Kornatian village but took a mooring at Uvala Kruscevica this time. This very nice bay is located in Telascica on the island Dugi Otok.

The next day we cruised through the Kornati, enjoying every single moment of it. Taking enough pictures to create a bible on though I think I will start with a tripartite.

We ended up that day in Prvic. A very relaxed cosy village on the island… Prvic. The next day was my best sailing day ever. Wind of about 18 knots, sunny and tacking to Primosten, for a good dive into the water. Circa 20 miles sailing and around 10 miles distance over ground. After the cooling down on to Rogoznica using the engine. Next days to Stomorska (excellent relaxed town on Otok Solta), Trogir (you will have to visit the cathedral) and finally Split (with the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletianus).

Daily Picture

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From the upperleft corner clockwise:

Uvala Kruscevica, Sailing to Primosten, Kornati Archipel (again), Rogoznica, an Italian sailing yacht close to Primosten and finally St. John in the west wing chapel of the Cathedral in Trogir.

Kornati Archipelago

On the last day of the Creation God desired to crown His work and thus created Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath

George Bernard Shaw

 

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The largest part of my trip through the Adriatic, I will be sailing the Kornati Achipel. It is the central part of croatian Adriatic Sea, about 15 Nm to the west from Sibenik town, 7 Nm to the southwest from Murter, or 15 Nm to the south from Zadar town.

The beauty and singularity of the archipelago moved authorities in 1980 to proclaim a bigger part of that area a national park. Since then certain modifications of its borders were made, so that nowadays Kornati National Park occupies the area of about 220 km2. There are 89 islands, islets and reefs within the area of Kornati National Park (238 km of the coastline), what makes it the most indented group of islands in the Mediterranean.

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Sailing the Adriatic

From May 16 to July 31 I will be sailing the Adriatic Sea and currently I’m quite busy with all the preparations for this trip I will start sailing from Murter, Croatia (somewhere between Zadar and Split) and first go north up to Triest and Venice in Italy. Then I will return to Croatia and going down up to Dubrovnik and Montenegro. See the map below for an impression of the trip.

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For this trip I have made another site and you can find all information there and you can find information about the planning. I am still looking for crewmembers – especially experienced ones – for a very special trip (the once in a lifetime opportunity 😉 from Dubrovnik to Italy and sailing there the coastline of Puglia and then crossing the Adriatic again back to Split.

Site for sailors: crew.ancientcoasts.com

For more information see also this post. This site is in Dutch, just twitter me at ancientcoasts if you need information in English

For everything related to the trails of Herodotus and Odysseus and explore the beauty of the Middleterrean just stay close to this weblog