Tag Archives: Murter

Days at the Office in Amsterdam

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First week in back in the Netherlands was not so hard as I would have expected.

Nothing has really changed. I have coffees and a sandwich at Café Thijssen (my Amsterdam office) instead of a lunch with fresh fish, I am reading the latest financial news in the FD instead of information about harbours and bays in sailing pilots. Work is like working in my Murter office as in the picture above. It is just all the same! Lucky me.

Next days / weeks / months will keep me busy with making a coherent and consistent story – the moments of truth – of my travelling.

You will find the results here through a picture, map or a story  published on this website periodically and I will be  improving the website.

Something I would like to start using is some cool extra functionality I found in the software I use for displaying the maps and pictures (XML Google Maps and NGG Galleries). It basically reads the GPS data from my geotagged pictures managed by NGG and displays it in Google Maps automatically, as you can see to the right.

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Sailing from Murter to Split

Yesterday arrived in Split after a week of happy sailing from Murter to Split.

Google Earth Mania

Below you will find the route we took.

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Download the Google Earth File (unzip and then open in Google Earth)

Off course I had to go to the Kornati Archipel again. This time no nice little Kornatian village but took a mooring at Uvala Kruscevica this time. This very nice bay is located in Telascica on the island Dugi Otok.

The next day we cruised through the Kornati, enjoying every single moment of it. Taking enough pictures to create a bible on though I think I will start with a tripartite.

We ended up that day in Prvic. A very relaxed cosy village on the island… Prvic. The next day was my best sailing day ever. Wind of about 18 knots, sunny and tacking to Primosten, for a good dive into the water. Circa 20 miles sailing and around 10 miles distance over ground. After the cooling down on to Rogoznica using the engine. Next days to Stomorska (excellent relaxed town on Otok Solta), Trogir (you will have to visit the cathedral) and finally Split (with the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletianus).

Daily Picture

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From the upperleft corner clockwise:

Uvala Kruscevica, Sailing to Primosten, Kornati Archipel (again), Rogoznica, an Italian sailing yacht close to Primosten and finally St. John in the west wing chapel of the Cathedral in Trogir.

Sneak Preview: Sailing to Venice in Google Earth

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See above the first sneak preview of the GPS data converted to Google Earth. Once I finalized the above, I realized so much more to be done.

I would like to add the waypoints for the different cities we have sailed, further  add the anchorings, the places we have spotted dolphins and the turtle. I have to find out how Google Earth could present speed and heading. Well and why not add photos into Google Earth? And polar diagrams with speed versus direction. Ai, I need a holiday badly.

For the ones interested, the following color coding for the weeks have been used:

Color Week   
From To
Yellow 1 Murter (Croatia) Pula (Croatia)
Orange 2 Pula (Croatia) Trieste (Italy)
Red 3 Trieste (Italy) Venice (Italy)
Blue 4 Venice (Italy) Pula (Croatia)
Magenta 5 Pula (Croatia) Murter (Croatia)

I tried to add a download to this post, somehow WordPress – the content management system I use – just does not cooperate. Meanwhile you can use the zoom and make a guesstimate what happened there. All guesstimates are welcome in the comments and I will try to reply to them.

Next week I will be going to Split, via the Kornati Archipel again (off course) and some places advised to people I have met.

A Day at the Office #6: Planning the future in Murter

Back in Murter again for some days after a long weekend sailing the neighborhood with 4 friends.

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Provides me therefore with some time to do some office work again. The usual analysing of the GPS data and the geocoding of my pictures. Further I will try to make some plans for next week.  Crew yet to be found unfortunately, although almost found last minute someone. Looks like I have to exercise my single handed sailing skills. Would love to go more to the Kornati and the Island Vis. In between so many beautifull cities.

Another part of my office routines today was having coffee with a Dutch couple two boats further amongst the quay. They are sailing around Croatia for over 20 years now and learned the sweet spots from a friend of theirs sailing the 30 years before. Almost half a century experience. They lend me their pilots with all their annotations but they will be leaving tomorrow. Looks like I have to study until late today.

To finalize one Daily Picture, a picture of the Kornati Archipel again.

Daily Picture

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A daily picture of the Kornati again because lucky enough we (the 5 of us) went there again and ended up in Lavsa, the bay you see in the picture above. The original plan was to go to Striznja but the dark skies with the  thunder and lightning heading to us (no worry, I get rather used to it) made me decide to find an anchoring a little bit earlier.

After the Lavsa went to Vodice and the Contrast between Kornati and Vodice couldn’t be bigger. The last being a full fledged disco village with bars, bars and… bars.

Being together with my friends made me think of Cafe Thijssen in Amsterdam again. Being asked what I would do first when back in Amsterdam, I could only think about a double espresso at Café Thijssen while reading “Het Financieele Dagblad”.

The Future

What will it be next week? Will I be sailing single handed or will I find someone to join the last minute? How will the weather develop? Will the Croatians call this the worst sailing summer officially? I know I have been lucky having lost only one day to the weather (although fled to Budapest because of it). Will I be sailing to the Island Vis next week? I will keep you posted.

Sailing the Kornati (again)

One of the highlights of circumsailing Croatia and Venice was (or better is) the Kornati Archipel. Somehow the moonlike rawness of the islands is fascinating and very attractive.

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Murter, where I did start my sailing and chartered my yacht, is also called the capital of the Kornati. For several reasons I guess.

Capital of the Kornati

Once the Kornati was owned by the nobility of the region around Zadar. The land was being used for some agriculture (mostly olives) and sheeps. When in dire straits around the 17th century, they sold it to the peasants working on it. Most of them and their descendants living in Murter or around. Although the Kornati Archipel is a national park, most of the islands are still privately owned. I guess those people can make a quite decent living from it.

Another explanation for Murter being the capital of the Kornati is because the vast amounts of tourist boarding to make daytrips to the Kornati. Another possiblity is renting a house for a week on an island. This is called “Robinson Holidays” locally, as you will be the only one on one of the 1,100 islands. Only to be visited every 3 days by people to provide you with new supplies (food, water, etc.).

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We stayed at Vrulje (see above) for the night when sailing around. It is also a privatly owned little village. One of the attractive thing of this island specific, especially for Dutch people around (including me), is that you don’t have to pay mooring fees or park entrance. Still don’t know if staying here obliges you to eat at the local restaurant. But the food (i.e. the morningfresh fish) is of such a quality you would be crazy not to do it.

Kornati Photo Album

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Sailing conditions

When we were sailing the weather was clearly turning, to the worse unfortunately.  After almost 2 weeks of sunny weather and fair winds, rain was about to come. Best was that we were able to sail the Kornati while keeping it dry. Although that evening in Vrulje it was raining cts and dogs. Clearly another experience, dining under cover.

Unfortunately the clouds were coming already in the early afternoon. In the first picture of the album above it was sunny,  though the clouds came soon to cover the blue sky. This only means I have to go back for the better pictures (what a punishment).

Only two days later Bora would strike again which made me run for Budapest.

Day 3: A Day at the Office

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Another Worlds Most Wanted Job

Sailing preprations this day. First the basics, got a Croatian mobile number (a prepaid T-Mobile costs about 100 Kuna which gives you with 150 kuna calling pleasures) and an internet dongle (service of the charter company). Further did some route planning for the next week at my temporary office of the day. Damn, I love this job :-)

Adriatic Pilot by Trevor and Dinah ThompsonWill go northward with Pula as next weeks destination. For the in between places I had a look at the different possible destinations  in this area. For the research I use “Adriatic Pilot: Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, East coast of Italy, Albania” by Trevor and Dinah Thompson. Todays research gave me the impression that this is an excellent pilot. If you want to buy one, make sure you have the 5th edition.

After the planning I did a check on the weather. Seems like the weather will be very friendly with us.  Although Sunday will be cloudy and possible no wind at all but some forecasts talk about 5 knots East for which I will be grateful. The rest of the week looks much better. When climbing up hopping from island to island, the wind looks to go for a NE direction with a force of about 15 knots. I would say perfect with me.

The tools I use for my weather investigations are Meteo Manager (about EUR 50,= for a license) and zyGrib (freeware).

Meteo Manager is a application to download Bracknell files for the next 7 days automatically. This makes it very easy to analyze the behaviour of the weather systems. One minor thing would be that the sofware is in Dutch only. zyGrib is a tool to use for Grib files. It downoads the Grib file for the selected area and is very good in presenting the wind, temperature, cloudiness and different to other applications it is even capable to make some prediction of fog.

Tonight and tomorrow could be rainy, well if that what is take to get such a good week as forecasted, I am a very happy guy.

Day 2: Snow & Mountains changing into Sun & Sea

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Awakening in a snowy, cloudy Austria

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Took a break for a highway espresso

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Settled for  Sea & Sun in Murter, Croatia


Left early today, as in Gasthof Gruber was not much party going on. After an hour or so in Slovenia for a total rip-off of EUR 35 for a road vignette. That amount would be fair if a) the roads are in good condition and b) you will make a fair mileage in that country. After an hour left the country so not much more to tell about Slovnia. In Croatia the weather improved finally. From a mediocre 12o C in Autria to a very fair and nice 25 degrees. Highland of Croatia so beautifull, as were the first views of the Adriatic Sea (Ta Thalatta, Ta Thalatta, Ta Thalatta, I was crying out aloud).

Before leaving the highway I though to go for some more fuel. Unfortunately my fuel cap seems to have broken somewhere among the road (probably due to the bad condition of the Slovenian roads!). So with the last drop of fuel I was able to reach the Sun & Sea. I have to admit I did not really enjoy the last miles among the coastline of Croatia in the sun looking out over the sea to the Kornati Islands. Certainly not when I found out that TomTom had sent me to the wrong village to take a ferry that didn’t exist anymore…

Route Analysis

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First the route, later the analyis 😛

Kornati Archipelago

On the last day of the Creation God desired to crown His work and thus created Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath

George Bernard Shaw


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The largest part of my trip through the Adriatic, I will be sailing the Kornati Achipel. It is the central part of croatian Adriatic Sea, about 15 Nm to the west from Sibenik town, 7 Nm to the southwest from Murter, or 15 Nm to the south from Zadar town.

The beauty and singularity of the archipelago moved authorities in 1980 to proclaim a bigger part of that area a national park. Since then certain modifications of its borders were made, so that nowadays Kornati National Park occupies the area of about 220 km2. There are 89 islands, islets and reefs within the area of Kornati National Park (238 km of the coastline), what makes it the most indented group of islands in the Mediterranean.

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