Tag Archives: Dugi Otok

Sailing the Kornati (again)

One of the highlights of circumsailing Croatia and Venice was (or better is) the Kornati Archipel. Somehow the moonlike rawness of the islands is fascinating and very attractive.

no images were found

Murter, where I did start my sailing and chartered my yacht, is also called the capital of the Kornati. For several reasons I guess.

Capital of the Kornati

Once the Kornati was owned by the nobility of the region around Zadar. The land was being used for some agriculture (mostly olives) and sheeps. When in dire straits around the 17th century, they sold it to the peasants working on it. Most of them and their descendants living in Murter or around. Although the Kornati Archipel is a national park, most of the islands are still privately owned. I guess those people can make a quite decent living from it.

Another explanation for Murter being the capital of the Kornati is because the vast amounts of tourist boarding to make daytrips to the Kornati. Another possiblity is renting a house for a week on an island. This is called “Robinson Holidays” locally, as you will be the only one on one of the 1,100 islands. Only to be visited every 3 days by people to provide you with new supplies (food, water, etc.).

no images were found

We stayed at Vrulje (see above) for the night when sailing around. It is also a privatly owned little village. One of the attractive thing of this island specific, especially for Dutch people around (including me), is that you don’t have to pay mooring fees or park entrance. Still don’t know if staying here obliges you to eat at the local restaurant. But the food (i.e. the morningfresh fish) is of such a quality you would be crazy not to do it.

Kornati Photo Album

no images were found

Sailing conditions

When we were sailing the weather was clearly turning, to the worse unfortunately.  After almost 2 weeks of sunny weather and fair winds, rain was about to come. Best was that we were able to sail the Kornati while keeping it dry. Although that evening in Vrulje it was raining cts and dogs. Clearly another experience, dining under cover.

Unfortunately the clouds were coming already in the early afternoon. In the first picture of the album above it was sunny,  though the clouds came soon to cover the blue sky. This only means I have to go back for the better pictures (what a punishment).

Only two days later Bora would strike again which made me run for Budapest.

Sweet memories in the afterstorm

Today waiting for a window to leave Umag, simply said it  I think it is the most depressing city among the further beautiful coast of Istria.

At this moment still in the afterstorm. Wind is around 20 knots but still gusts. Should decrease later in the day (around 1400 local time). Depending on when the wind will decrease, we will be heading for Trieste in Italy (about 20 nM) or Piran in Slovenia (about 8 nM).

no images were found

The Bora of yesterday makes you long for the bay of Brbinj. And it was only just a week ago…

A very peaceful bay on Dugi Otok of the Kornati. There is a small village with 5 houses, a supermarket and a restaurant. A 15 minutes walk through the hills brings you to a similar village. There we had the best Dorade from the grill. Life can be simple.

But one thing I found out yesterday is  the Bora beer. This you drink when you survived the Bora to replace the anchor beer after a fine day of sailing.