In the summer of 2009 I circumsailed the Adriatic Sea with Sailing Yacht Rosa, an Elan 434, for about 3 months. I left from Murter in Croatia and went north to Pula, Trieste and Venice and back again. After a week in the Kornati Archipel I went south to Dubrovnik visiting places like Split, Hvar, Korcula and the Elephati Islands. From there upwards to Murter again.
Below you will find an impression of the route I sailed and the different islands and cities I have visited. If these islands and cities are described in one of my posts, you will find the link to the post below it. This paga is a living thing so come back for updates.
Heading North to Venice
Week 1 – Sailing from Murter to Pula
Route: Murter – Sali – Brbinje – Silba – Mali Losinj – Sosak – Pula
Crew: Emanuel, Betina & Bas
My trip started in Bettina Murter where I have spent many days to plan the trip. Often I had dinner at this pizzeria located in a former shipyard. The family running the restaurant still had the same blood running through the vains as the original founders of the shipyard back in the 18th century. From Murter you have an excellent starting point for sailing the Kornati Archipel… wich I didn’t. I would head north to Venice, with the first stop in Sali on Dugi Otok.
Mali Losinj is the island known as the Monaco of the Adriatic whith it’s city is laying gentily at the end of a bay. This place offers everything luxury you appreciate having sailed some days. From bakeries, a fish market and some excellent pastries (you have to try the deer sausage) and the best showers of the Adriatic. It is told that on this place the Medea, the wife of Jason (of Jason and the Argonauts), ambushed her brother. An action the brother didn’t survive.
I would call Pula little Rome in Croatia. The city is so rich of Roman monuments like the Temple of Helena, an triumphal arch and the amphitheater lying next to the marina that I will always look forward to return. It was also the endpoint of my first week sailing providing me a warm feeling of mission accomplished.
Week 2 – Sailing from Pula in Croatia to Trieste, Italy
Route: Pula – Rovinj – Porec – Umag – Trieste (Italië)
Crew: Bas & Alex
The first city we sailed was Rovinj in the second week and what a start. First of all the view off the city is breathtaking. It is lying on a peninsula with a distinctive Campanile on top of it, legacy of it’s Venetian roots. For the fresh crew it was also breathtaking to try the quay, a mooring and finally a marina for berthing.
Although Umag is the place I wouldn’t be found death being a cheap tourist trap providing only hell-lighted arcades, loud disco’s and cheap restaurants. This was the place where we first met Bora, the fierce northern-storm this part of Croatia is notorious of. So we sheltered here for one day and measured windspeeds of more then 50 knots.
Trieste, our destination of the week, won my unconditional love without a warning. Besides being a monumental city with a rich history with the ups and downs, the people are so relaxed, the food fantastic (I never found a Manzo similar to what I have tasted here) and Marina San Giusto had the best espresso I ever found in a harbour.
Week 3 – Sailing from Trieste to Venice
Route: Trieste – Piran (Slovenië) – Lugnano (Italië) – Venetië
|The prelude of heading to Venice is called Piran, pearl of Slovenia, and a well captured Venetian city. Before it fell under Venetian control in 1283, it was an important maritime trading centre. The whole city breaths ancient Venice and on top of the hill is an impressive Campanile modeled on the famous campanile in St. Marks Square. The view of the Campanile is fantastic as a reward for the more daring ones.|
From a sailing perspective Lugnano has no significance. It’s economy is fully dependent on beach-focused people from Austria and Germany arriving in the summer. We arrived before the season had started and the millions of empty beach chairs gave me the creapy feeling of a nuked summer holiday.
Venice, were should I start? I guess the beauty of the city speaks for itself. For me it was the realization of a dream project that started a year earlier, a fantastic feeling. I will never be prepared though to be anchored in an harbour for which I will not find an equal for the rest of my life.
Week 4 & 5 – Returning to Murter and the Kornati Archipel
Route: Venice – Porec (Croatia) – Rovinj – Pula – Mali Losinj – Luka Kraijil – Molat – Iz Veli – Sali – Vrulje – Murter
Crew: Boele, Emke & Oscar
After leaving Venice we crossed the Adriatic Sea immediately for Porec in Croatia. After having done the customs and other formalities for our entrance into Croatia (I have learned here to take this more seriously) we sailed southward along the coast to Pula. From there we left the Istrian peninsula for the islands in the Kvarner Gulf. First to Mali Losinj and then we had the opportunity to sail into the unknown…
First to Luka Krijal, a small village lying on the west coast of Otok Premuda. The village is protected from the pounding gulfs of the Adriatic by a small chain of rocks and islets. This channel between the island and the off-lying reefs provides an excellent anchorage to enjoy the sunset.
About 12 miles further to the south-east lies Otok Molat. The highlands of the mainland behind the island are impressinve. There are three villages on the island and one of them is Molat. This village main goal is providing ease for the Croatians of the mainland arriving by the ferry in the weekends. It has a church, post office, a supermarket besides around 20 houses and a graveyard. The village is the proof that tranquility is something to aim for.
From here we sailed further south and returned to Murter via the Kornati Archipel (see further below).
Week 6 – Looking for Shelter for the Bora
Route: Murter – Zagreb – Budapest – Murter
Crew: Saab 900 T16S
The third encounter with Bora made me visit a friend in Budapest. Having been boated for more then 6 weeks, it is such a joy being in the city again. Good food and espresso’s, large terraces and fast internet do belong to my life necessities more then I would like to admit.
Heading South to Dubrovnik
Week 7 – Roundtrip Kornati Archipel
Route: Murter – Plavsa – Vodice – Murter
Crew: Bas, Mariola, Job & Sanne
On the last day of the Creation God desired to crown His work and thus created Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath.
George Bernard Shaw
|Click this link to see the pictures of Week 7|
Week 8 – Sailing from Murter to Split
Route: Murter – Telascica – Prvic – Rogoznica – Stomorska – Trogir – Split
Telascica Bay on the island Dugi Otok is a national park on itself. On the south-west side of the bay you can go ashore for a walk to a Jerezo Mir a saltwater lake cut off from the sea by a norrwo barrier. In the east side of he bay you’ll find a small bay called Uvala Krusevica. There is a small pittoresque restaurant where you can have fresh grilled fresh if you are lucky. The owner and patron of this place is known for shutting down the restuarant and leave for a hike on Dugi Otok for several days. So don’t expect too much when visiting the bay…
It was the unexpected meeting of a long time friend which made Prvic one of the hghlights of the week. About five years earlier I was here before and had the tradional Croatian meal called Pecca. It is the stew of squid, potato and tomatoes and some secret ingredients and needs to be put under hot coal for circa 2,5 hours to prepare.
The old town Trogir, built on the foundations of ancient Greek Tragurion, is one of the most seductive towns on the Dalmatian coast with it’s fortress, Venetian-kind of palaces and houses along the streets. The Cathedral Sv Lovre is famous for it’s 13th century carved doorway (known as Radovan’s Portal) but personally I like the north aisle of the cathedral most. There you’ll find in St John of Trogir’s Chapel at the centre of the ceiling God the Creator surrounded by hundreds of angels, under God’s view tens of life-sized statues of saints are placed.
Week 9 – Sailing from Split to Dubrovnik
Route: Split – Hvar – Vis – Vela Luka – Korcula – Sipan – Dubrovnik
Crew: Rutger, Robert & Alex
|Click this link to see the pictures of Week 9|
Week 10 – Sailing from Dubrovnik to Split
Route: Dubrovnik – Ston – Korcula – Loviste – Hvar – Lucice – Split
Crew: Robert-Jan, Thomas & Jeroen
|Click this link to see the pictures of Week 10|
Week 11 – Returning S/Y Rosa to Murter
Route: Split – Vinisce – Zlarin – Murter